A comprehensive view of Buan-gun, Jeollabuk-do from the perspective of the humanities encompassing its geography and history, process of development, changes in its population, Gyehwado Island, and the reclaimed land of Saemangeum, etc.
Process of Formation of Buan-Gun
During the Samhan Period, present-day Buan-gun was a part of the territory of Jibanguk, one of the fifty-four mini kingdoms of the Mahan Confederacy. The area was renamed Gaehwa-hyeon of Baekje and then Buryeong-hyeon of Unified Silla, respectively, during the Three Kingdoms Period and in 757 (the 16th year of the reign of King Gyeongdeok). In 1416 (the 16th year of the reign of King Taejong) during the Joseon Period, Buryeong-hyeon and Boan-hyeon were merged into one and renamed Buan-hyeon. The area was also known as Nangju or Bupung. Following the reorganization of local administrative units, the area became Buan-gun, Jeonju-bu in 1895 and then Buan-gun, Jeollabuk-do in 1896. With the further reorganization of administrative units in 1914, during the Japanese colonial period, Dongdo-myeon and Hadong-myeon were incorporated into Buryeong-myeon; Namha-myeon and Sosan-myeon were incorporated into Jusan-myeon; Sangdong-myeon, Ido-myeon, and Ildo-myeon were incorporated into Dongjin-myeon; Namsang-myeon and Seodo-myeon were incorporated into Haengan-myeon; Ipsang-myeon and Ipha-myeon were incorporated into Boan-myeon; Jwasannae-myeon and Usannae-myeon were incorporated into Sannae-myeon; Geoma-myeon, Deokrim-myeon, and Baeksan-myeon, which had belonged to Gobu-gun, were incorporated into Baeksan-myeon, Buan-gun; while Sangseo-myeon, Haseo-myeon, and Geonseon-myeon remained unchanged. [Buan Country was composed of ten myeon at this time]. In 1931, Geonseon-myeon was renamed Julpo-myeon after Julpo Port. In 1943, Buryeong-myeon was upgraded to Buan-eup. In 1963, Wido-myeon was transferred from Yeonggwang-gun, Jeollanam-do to Buan-gun, Jeollabuk-do [1 eup and 10-myeon]. In 1977, the reclamation work at Gyehwado Island was completed after fifteen years, making it the largest and longest reclamation project ever carried out in the country. In the following year, the first rice harvest was gathered in, and more people settled there. In 1983, the Gyehwa Branch office of Haengan-myeon was upgraded to Gyehwa-Myeon Office [1 eup and 11-myeon], while the local government office in Jinseo was upgraded to Jinseo-Myeon Office [1 eup and 12-myeon]. In 1987, Sannae-myeon was renamed Byeonsan-myeon. Buan-gun consists of one -eup [Buan-eup] and twelve -myeon [Jusan-myeon, Dongjin-myeon, Haengan-myeon, Gyehwa-myeon, Boan-myeon, Byeonsan-myeon, Jinseo-myeon, Baeksan-myeon, Sangseo-myeon, Haseo-myeon, Julpo-myeon, Wido-myeon]. Among these, Byeonsan-myeon, Sangseo-myeon, Jinseo-myeon, Haseo-myeon, and Boan-myeon are all part of Byeonsanbando National Park. The name ‘Byeonsan’ is thought to have appeared as early as the Samhan Period or the Three Kingdoms Period, although it was not until 1987, when Sannae-myeon was renamed as Byeonsan-myeon, that it was finally adopted as the name of a local administrative unit.
Population Change of Buan-Gun
As of the end of 2019, the population of Buan-gun stood at 54,150, making it the ninth largest si/gun or the 3rd largest gun after Wanju-gun (95,881 inhabitants) and Gochang-gun (56,467 inhabitants) in Jeollabuk-do. Buan County’s inhabitants make up 2.92% of the entire population of Jeollabuk-do (1,851,991). Looking at the trend of changes in the population of Buan-gun, it was 149,707 in 1960, 172,866 in 1965, 161,273 in 1970, 155,887 in 1975, 130,894 in 1980, 114,306 in 1985, 102,787 in 1990, 84,383 in 1995, 74,877 in 2000, 65,267 in 2005, 60,597 in 2010, and 57,492 in 2015. Its population reached a peak in 1966 (175,044), before decreasing to less than 100,000 by 1992 (92,812), and it has continued to fall markedly since then. There are one eup and twelve myeon in Buan-gun. As of the end of 2019, the population of Buan-eup stood at 21,038, accounting for 38.85% of the entire population of Buan-gun(54,150). The population of each myeon is as follows: Byeonsan-myeon [4,785], Gyehwa-myeon [3,738], Dongjin-myeon [3,095], Haseo-myeon [2,884], Julpo-myeon [2,794], Baeksan-myeon [2,671], Boan-myeon [2,582], Jinseo-myeon [2,477], Haengan-myeon [2,461], Sangseo-myeon [2,340], Jusan-myeon [2,071], and Wido-myeon [1,214]. Wido-myeon is composed entirely of islands. In 2018, the number of newborn children was just 215, compared to 710 deaths, showing a natural decrease of the local population [-495]. The number of people who moved out of the area (6,485) outnumbered those who moved into the area (5,305) in the same year [-1,180]. According to the results of the analysis of those who moved out of Buan-gun in 2018, 4,056 (62.54%) people moved to another area in Jeollabuk-do, while 1422 people (21.93%) moved to the Greater Seoul area, i.e. 697 to Gyeonggi-do, 556 to Seoul, and 169 to Incheon. About 8.13% of the people who left Buan-gun moved to nearby provinces, i.e. 223 to Gwangju, 169 to Chungnam, and 135 Jeollanam-do, while the other 362 (5.58%). In summary, the destinations of those who moved out of Buan-gun were other areas in Jeollabuk-do (62.54%), the Greater Seoul area (21.93%), and nearby provinces (8.13%). Looking at migration to Buan-gun [5,305] in 2018, the number of people from other areas in Jeollabuk-do came to 3,430 (64.66%), followed by the Greater Seoul area (21.34%) (538 from Gyeonggi-do, 459 from Seoul, and 135 from Incheon), while those from nearby areas (7.11%) included 131 people from Jeollanam-do, 129 from Gwangju, and 117 from Chungnam. The remainder accounted for 366 (6.90%). This trend shows that other areas in Jeollabuk-do, the Greater Seoul area, and nearby provinces accounted for the majority in both cases, i.e. those moving out of or into the area.
Historical Aspect of Buan-Gun
According to Samguk yusa (1281, Memorabilia of the Three Kingdoms), “The name Byeonhan originates from Byeonsan, which used to be a territory of Baekje.” Sinjeung Donggukyeojiseungram (Revised edition of the Culture and Geographic Records of Korea, published in 1530) describes Byeonsan as “a place surrounded by steep mountains full of large rocks and deep valleys.” Meanwhile, Taengniji (Guide to Choosing Desirable Places to Settle), compiled by Lee Jung-hwan, describes Byeonsan as “a place with many mountain peaks and deep valleys.” Jeonggamrok (a book of predictions about the country’s future based on Feng Shui that was distributed from the mid-Joseon Period onwards) refers to Byeonsan, along with Unbong and Mupung, as one of the ten most attractive scenic spots in Jeollabuk-do. There is no knowing where the ten scenic spots are located, but it is guessed that they refer to the places near Gulbawi in Udong-ri, Boan-myeon and Ulgeum Bawi. Byeonsan has also been called Neunggasan, Yeongjusan, Bongnaesan, etc. Euisangbong (also known as Gisangbong, 508.6m) is the highest peak in the Byeonsan Peninsula. The main historic sites in Buan-gun include the Shell Midden in Daehangri, Byeonsan-myeon; various sites related to the Neolithic Period in Gyehwa-ri, Gyehwa-myeon and Sosan-ri, Jusan-myeon; a group of Bronze Age dolmens in Seoksang-ri, Haseo-myeon; the Suseongdang Shrine (related with sacrificial rites); and the Kiln Site in Yucheon-ri, Boan-myeon. Ugeumsanseong Fortress (3 km long, situated behind Gaeamsa Temple) in Gamgyo-ri, Sangseo-myeon, Buan-gun is thought to be Juryuseong Fortress, which was associated with the Baekje Restoration Movement of 663, and was the place where Boksin and Dochim led the last battle of resistance in the struggle for the restoration of Baekje. During the second Japanese invasion of the Imjin War in 1597, local people fought the invaders at Hobeolchi Hill. During the Donghak Peasant Movement, Baeksan-myeon was one of the major places where the movement developed particularly actively. It was said that when peasant stands up called Baeksan(due to the white clothes), and when peasant sit down called Juksan(due to the bamboo spears). The Suseongdang Shrine in Jukmak-dong is situated near Jeokbyeokgang Cliff, where local people prayed for a good catch in the waters off Chilsan. Furthermore, the sites of beacon mounds are located at Bonghwabong Peak in Gyeokpo and on Gyehwasan Mountain in Gyehwado Island. Historic Buddhist temples on the Byeonsan Peninsula include Naesosa Temple (in Jinseo-myeon), which was built in 633 (the 34th year of the reign of King Mu of Baekje); Gaeamsa Temple (in Sangseo-myeon), which was built in 634 (the 35th year of the reign of King Mu); and Wolmyeongam Hermitage (in Byeonsan-myeon), which was built in 691 (the 11th year of the reign of King Sinmun of the Unified Silla Period). The Byeonsan Peninsula had dense forests, so timber (known as byeonjae) was collected here and taken away to build royal palaces or boats from the Goryeo Period. When the Mongols invaded Goryeo and then attempted to conquer Japan in the thirteenth century, they built their battleships with timber from this area.
Gyehwado Island and Reclaimed Land of Saemangeum
The land reclamation work at Gyehwado Island began in 1963 with the construction of the first seawall (9,254 m in length; 1963-1966; The 1st Drainage Sluice Gate and the second seawall (3,556 m in length; 1965-1968), which connected Gyehwado Island with Dongjin-myeon, Buan-gun. The project also converted 27.41km2 of reclaimed land into rice paddies, and the first rice was harvested there in 1978. With the increase in population, the local government office was upgraded to Gyehwa-Myeon Office in February 1983 [five -ri with 27 villages/Myeon Office located in Changbuk-ri]. Some 2,786 households who had to leave their submerged villages with the completion of the Okjeong-ri Dam on the upper reaches of the Seomjingang River in 1961-1965 were resettled here. In the period 1968-1978, Cheongho Reservoir, Dongjin Waterway Tunnel, new rice paddies in Jopo and Gyehwa, houses, and a road linking Changbuk with Gyehwado Island were all built in the reclaimed area. The area’s agricultural water requirements are met via the Dongjin Waterway Tunnel, which channels water from the dams on the Seomjingang River. Regarding the 33.9-kilometer-long Saemangeum Seawall linking Daehang-ri, Byeonsan-myeon, Buan-gun with Bieungdo-dong, Gunsan, a total of 409㎢ of reclaimed land has been created inside the seawall, including reclaimed land [291㎢] and a lake-swamp covering 118 ㎢. Construction of the Saemangeum Seawall was started in November 28, 1991 and completed in April 27, 2010. It is 1.4 km longer than the Zuiderzee (32.5 km) in the Netherlands, which previously remained the world’s longest seawall for many years. As such, it has been registered in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s longest seawall. The reclaimed land area extends across Buan-gun, Gimje-si, and Gunsan-si in Jeollabuk-do, and is the largest reclamation project ever carried out in the country.
Current Status of Buan-Gun
Regarding schools in Buan-gun, there are twenty-two elementary schools, thirteen middle schools (nine public and four private), and seven high schools (five public and two private). There are three public libraries in Buan-gun. As for transportation, the area is accessible from the West Coast Highway (Highway No, 15) through Buan or Julpo Interchange. The following highways link to the area: Highway No. 23, which connects Buan-eup with Julpo-myeon; Highway No. 30, which connects Buan-eup to Julpo-myeon along the coast of the Byeonsan Peninsula; Highway No. 77, which links to Gunsan via the Saemangeum Seawall. As for local roads, there are Road No. 736, which traverses the Byeonsan Peninsula latitudinally, No. 707, which links Buan-eup with Julpo-myeon longitudinally, and No. 705, which connects Gyehwado Island with Sangseo-myeon. As regards fishing ports in Buan-gun, there are national fishing ports such as Gyeokpo Port, Wido Port, and the nationally controlled Sanwangdeungdo Fishing Port and local ports like Gomso Port, Gunghang Port, Seongcheon Port, Songpo Port, Sikdo Port, Docheong Port, Wangpo Port, Mohang Port, Daeri Hang, and Beolgeum Port. Celebrities who were born or active in Buan-gun include the poet Shin Seok-jeong (1907-1974), the gisaeng Lee Mae-chang (1573-1610), the scholar Yu Hyeong-won (pen-name: Bangye/1622-1673), author of Bangyesurok, and Jeon U (pen-name: Ganjae/1841-1922), who chose to live in Gyehwado Island. Buan-gun has irrigation facilities such as Buan Dam and reservoirs such as Sasan, Cheongho, Gomaje, Yeongjeon, Nampo, Cheongrimje, Udongje, Seokpo, Unho, Yuyu, Gaeam,and Jongam. There is the Byeonsan Hot Spring in Daehang-ri, Byeonsan-myeon. Local specialties include croakers caught in the sea off Chinsan, Wido Island, Gomso jeotgal (dried salted fish), mulberries from the village of Yuyu, natural salt and hamcho (Salicornia) from Gomso, bamboo salt originating from Gaeamsa Temple, and Goryeo celadon produced in Yucheon-ri, Boan-myeon, etc. Five places in Byeonsan-myeon (Jeokbyeokgang, Chaeseokgang, Solseom, Mohang, and Jikso Falls) and Wido Island in Buan-gun are included in Jeonbuk/West Coast Korean National Geopark.
Cultural Heritage Objects of Buan-Gun
Buan-gun is home to 391 heritage objects belonging to 61 categories which have been designated as cultural heritages (i.e. 336 objects in 25 types being nationally designated heritages and 55 objects in 36 categories being Jeollabuk-do Cultural Heritages). The nine cultural heritages designated as Treasures include the Bronze Bell of Naesosa Temple (Treasure No. 277); the Transcription of Saddharmapundarika Sutra (The Lotus Sutra) in Ink on White Paper (Treasure No. 278); the Daeungbojeon Hall of Naesosa Temple (Treasure No. 291); the Daeungjeon Hall of Gaeamsa Temple (Treasure No. 292); the Portrait of Go Hui and Relics Related to the Buan Branch of the Jeju Go Clan (Treasure No. 739); the Documents of the Buan Kim Clan (Treasure No. 900); Hanging Painting of Naesosa Temple (The Vulture Peak Assembly) (Treasure No. 1268), the Hanging Painting and the Sketch of Gaeamsa Temple (The Vulture Peak Assembly)(Treasure No. 1269), and the Red Certificate of Choe Gwang-ji (Treasure No. 2062). Places in Buan-gun designated as historic sites include the Kiln Site in Yucheon-ri (Historic Site No. 69), the Kiln Site in Jinseo-ri (Historic Site No. 70), the Dolmens in Guam-ri (Historic Site No. 103), Baeksanseong Fortress (Historic Site No. 409), and the Archaeological Site in Jukmak-dong (Historic Site No. 541). There are also two designated Scenic Points, namely, the Chaeseokgang and Jeokbyeokgang Cliffed Coasts (Scenic Points No. 13) and the Jiksopokpo Falls (Scenic Pints No. 116). The Natural Monuments in Buan-gun include the Population of Horned Hollies in Docheong-ri (Natural Monument No. 122); the Population of Machilus in Gyeokpo-ri (Natural Monument No. 123); the Population of Box-leaved Hollies in Junggye-ri (Natural Monument No. 124); and the Natural Habitat of White Forsythias (Natural Monument No. 370). The National Folklore Cultural Heritage of Buan-gun include the Village Guardians within the West Gate (National Folk Cultural Heritage No. 18); Village Guardians within the East Gate (National Folk Cultural Heritage No.19), and the Gim Sang-man's Historic House (National Folk Cultural Heritage No. 150). In addition, the Former Buan Financial Association is Nationally Registered Cultural Heritage No. 177, while the Wido Ttibaennori is registered as National Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 82-3. The tangible cultural heritage of Jeollabuk-do (11 types) includes the Suseongdang Shrine (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 58); Flagpole Supports in Seooe-ri (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 59); Wido Government Office (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No.101); Seated Stone Buddha in Cheongnim-ri (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 123); Three-story Stone Pagoda of Naesosa Temple (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 124); Seolseondang Hall and Dormitory of Naesosa Temple (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 125); Bronze Bell of Gaeamsa Temple (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 126); Buseoljeon (The Tale of Buseol) (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 140); Stone standing Maitreya Buddha of Yonghwasa Temple (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 171); Sixteen Arahat Statues of Eungjinjeon Hall in Gaeamsa Temple (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 179); and Seated Wooden Amitabha Buddha Triad of Naesosa Temple (Jeollabuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage No. 255). The intangible cultural heritage of Jeollabuk-do include Buan Nongak (Farmers’ Performance of Buan) (Jeollabuk-do Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 7-1); Jejojang(Bamboo Salt Making) Heo Jae-geun (Jeollabuk-do Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 23); Sagijang (Ceramic Making) Lee Eun-gyu (Jeollabuk-do Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 29); Daemokjang (Traditional Wooden Architecture) Kim Jeong-rak (Jeollabuk-do Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 30); and Gasa[Kim Bong-gi] (Jeollabuk-do Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 34). The folk cultural heritage Jeollabuk-do include the Boan Menhir (Jeollabuk-do Folk Cultural Heritage No. 6); Ssangjoseokgan Dangsan Pillar (Jeollabuk-do Folk Cultural Heritage No. 17); Village Guardians within the South Gate of Buan (Jeollabuk-do Folk Cultural Heritage No. 18); Dolmosan Village Guardians (Jeollabuk-do Folk Cultural Heritage No. 19); Stone Guardian Post of Jukrim-ri (Jeollabuk-do Folk Cultural Heritage No. 20); and Stone Guardian Post of Wolcheon-ri (Jeollabuk-do Folk Cultural Heritage No. 30). There are twelve monuments of Jeollabuk-do in Buan-gun: Ugeumsanseong Fortress (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 20); Yu Hyeongwon Historic Site (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 22); Memorial Site of the Scholar Ganjae (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 23); beolchi Battlefield during Jeongyujaeran (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 30); Tile Kiln Site in Sasan-ri (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 40), Shell Midden in Daehang-ri (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 50); Tomb of YI Mae-chang (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 65); Silsangsa Temple Site (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 77); The Vicinity of Naesosa Temple (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 78); House of Sin Seokjeong (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 84); Gaveyard of Jipo, Kim Ku (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 127); and Jeombangsan Beacon (Jeollabuk-do Monument No. 140). Meanwhile, Daeseongjeon Shrine of Buanhyanggyo Local Confucian School is designated as Jeollabuk-do Cultural Heritage Material No. 93, and Memorial Stone for Go Hong-geon is designated as Jeollabuk-do Cultural Heritage Material No. 111.
